Surface must be clean and dry. Remove all loose, peeling paint, dirt, mildew, grease, oil, chalk, rust, and any other surface contaminants. Blistering
and peeling issues are commonly caused by moisture behind the paint film. Problems leading to excessive moisture in the substrate must be
repaired prior to painting. Putty all nail holes and caulk all cracks and open seams. Sand all glossy, rough, and patched surfaces. Plaster, concrete,
and masonry surfaces must be completely dry, free of efflorescence, and allowed to cure for 30 days prior to painting. When applied to an uncoated substrate or to bare wood, two coats are required with the first coat acting as the primer. For exterior ferrous metal, tannin staining woods,
fresh concrete or masonry (less than 30 days cure), or chalky surfaces, use of an appropriate specialty primer is recommended for best results.
WARNING! If you scrape, sand, or remove old paint, you may release lead dust or fumes. LEAD IS TOXIC. EXPOSURE TO LEAD DUST OR
FUMES CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ILLNESS, SUCH AS BRAIN DAMAGE, ESPECIALLY IN CHILDREN. PREGNANT WOMEN SHOULD ALSO
AVOID EXPOSURE. Wear a properly fitted NIOSH-approved respirator and prevent skin contact to control lead exposure. Clean up carefully with
a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself and your family by contacting the USEPA National Lead
Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead. Follow these instructions to control exposure to other hazardous substances that may be released during surface preparation.
ALUMINUM: Depending on the type of aluminum a primer may be required for proper adhesion. Any coating applied directly to aluminum should
be spot applied, allowed to cure overnight, and then evaluated for adhesion. If adhesion is good, the application may proceed.
CERAMIC TILE: No primer needed; sanding or etching with phosphoric acid is necessary. Topcoat should be spot applied as directed, allowed
to cure overnight, then evaluated for adhesion. If adhesion is good, the application may proceed.
CONCRETE: New concrete should cure for at least 30 days and preferably 90 days prior to priming and painting. The pH of the substrate must
be less than 10 before painting. If pH is greater than 10, prime with an alkali resistant primer.
CONCRETE/MASONRY BLOCK: Mortar should cure for at least 30 days and preferably 90 days prior to painting. Fill block with an appropriate
block filler. Surfaces previously coated with water thinned cement-based paint must be prepared with extra care. If the material appears to be
adhering tightly, a masonry sealer may be applied to seal the surface. Check adhesion by applying a piece of masking tape. If the sealer peels
off and has loose particles, remove all chalking or crumbling material, re-seal and re-check adhesion.
FERROUS METAL: The surface must be cleaned thoroughly to remove any dust, rust, and surface contaminants, and then primed. No primer
is required for interior applications.
FIBERGLASS: No primer needed; sanding or scuffing the surface is recommended. Primer and topcoat should be spot applied as directed,
allowed to cure overnight, then evaluated for adhesion. If adhesion is good, the application may proceed.
GALVANIZED?STEEL: A primer is required for proper adhesion. Caution must be used when selecting coatings for use on all galvanized metal
surfaces. These substrates may have a factory-applied stabilizer, which is used to prevent white rusting during storage and shipping. Such stabilizers must be removed by either brush blasting, sanding or chemical treatment prior to priming.
GYPSUM WALLBOARD-DRYWALL: Nails or screws should be countersunk, and they along with any indentations should be mudded flush with
the surface, sanded smooth and cleaned to remove any dust, prior to priming the substrate.
LAMINATE: No primer needed; sanding or scuffing the surface is recommended. Topcoat should be spot applied as directed, allowed to cure
overnight, then evaluated for adhesion. If adhesion is good, the application may proceed.
PLASTER: Plaster, hardcoat, skim coat, or other alkaline surfaces should be allowed to cure for at least 30 days prior to priming with this product
or an alkali resistant primer.
WOOD (INTERIOR): Unpainted wood or wood in poor condition should be sanded smooth, wiped clean. Any knots or resinous areas must be
primed before painting. Countersink all nails, putty flush with surface. For non-bleeding or previously painted wood, no primer is required.
VINYL & ARCHITECTURAL?PLASTICS: No primer needed. Consult the manufacturer’s guidelines prior to painting. Primer and Topcoat should
be spot applied, allowed to cure overnight, then evaluated for adhesion. If adhesion is good, the application may proceed. Do not paint vinyl or
plastic with a color darker than the original to prevent potential warping due to heat absorption.
